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Bourton House

Located in the village of Burton-on-the-Hill, in the Cotswold district of Gloucestershire, Bourton House is an eighteenth-century manor house with a sixteenth-century Tithe Barn. It is surrounded by a three-acre garden and a seven-acre walled pasture that is now planted with specimen trees. The Jacobean-style house was originally built in 1598 and was shortly thereafter purchased by the wealthy London lawyer Sir Nicholas Overbury. There is a dark history involving Overbury's son, which includes adultery and murder. It is quite a convoluted story, and I don't believe any of the shady dealings actually took place at Bourton House. You can read the story here and decide for yourself. An interesting note about these manor houses and gardens is that the front of the houses usually faced the back of the property. At least that was the case with Hidcote and Kiftsgate . The same here with Bourton House, where the entrance to the property (right next to a busy street) contained a litt...
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Winter Rose Care & Pruning



Although major rose pruning is not done until late February into early March, there are a few things I do to get roses settled in for the winter.

First, I wait until the first frost has occurred before I do anything. That happened on December 1 this year, a little later than normal. If you do any pruning prior to that, new growth will be encouraged, and it will just be nipped later. I will then do minimal pruning, about 1/3 of the plant or to about waist-high. It does not matter how you make the cuts. More precise pruning will be done in late winter. Giving roses a slight pruning at this time will decrease the damage from strong winter winds. Roses are not deeply rooted, and any long canes can spell trouble.

Pick off any remaining leaves, if possible. I know that can be a big job if there are still many leaves left on the plant but you don't want leaves, especially diseased leaves, left to fall and harbor spores for next season.



Clean the area around the base of the rose. Rake out all leaves and dispose of them in the trash, not the compost.



For extra measure and especially for roses that had problems this year, a dormant oil spray as well as a copper fungicide is recommended. I use a combination of Monterey Horticultural Oil and Monterey Liqui-Cop. The formula is 1 ounce of horticultural oil and 2 ounces of Liqui-Cop in one gallon of water. Spray the canes as well as the ground surrounding the base of the rose. Make sure you do this on a dry day. This can be repeated later in the winter and early spring. (At the nursery, we recommend three sprayings - on New Year's Day, Valentine's Day and early to mid March). Note: Read the label for more information, especially when it comes to combining products. The Monterey oil and copper fungicide can be combined but others may not. Check to make sure!)



Finally, cover the base of the rose with mulch. You can use anything you have - compost,  leaves, bark chips, etc. Roses are generally very hardy here but it doesn't hurt to add some protection. At the beginning of spring, the mulch will be removed.



That's it for now. Around March 1, I will do more extensive pruning and get them ready for another season. 


Text and photos by Phillip Oliver, Dirt Therapy
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