Houghton Hall & Gardens (Norfolk, England)

The sunken fountain garden at Houghton Hall

Back to the English garden tour! This is Houghton Hall and Gardens, which our group visited on July 25. It was another hot day, and this was the last garden on our itinerary.

On the way there, we were told that our time would be tight because the estate closed at 5 p.m. There would only be enough time for either the house tour or the garden, so we had to choose our preference.

Since it was so hot, I decided to take the house tour. Shortly afterward, however, our tour leader, Bruce, texted another member of the group and said that the garden was wonderful and not to miss it. When she passed that along to me, I immediately headed for the gardens!

The House at Houghton Hall

Houghton Hall was built by Sir Robert Walpole, the first Earl of Orford. He inherited the family home and decided to rebuild it on a much grander scale. The new house was designed in the Palladian style by Colen Campbell and James Gibbs, with interiors decorated by William Kent.

Walpole was one of the richest men in England and spared no expense. He wanted Houghton Hall to be a showplace for his elaborate hunting parties.

After his death in 1745, the house passed to his son. However, the elder Walpole had left significant debts—£40,000—and the estate went into decline. It passed through a succession of three more Earls, the last being Horace Walpole, author of The Castle of Otranto, which is considered the first Gothic novel. I've been meaning to read it for a long time.

Upon Horace Walpole's death in 1797, the estate passed to his sister Mary. The house was rented out for two decades before becoming the residence of George Cholmondeley, a descendant of the Walpoles. His wealthy wife, Sybil (Sassoon), was instrumental in restoring Houghton Hall to its former glory.

Compared with the relatively restrained exterior of the house, the interior is remarkably elaborate. A series of state rooms are lavishly decorated with rich colors and ornate details.

We entered the Stone Hall, a room filled with white marble and plasterwork, along with elaborate ornaments, carvings, and statuary.

Again, I was transfixed by the ceiling medallions above the chandeliers.

The Saloon's walls are covered in rich red fabric with gilded accent decorations around the ceiling and doors. 

The White Drawing Room features a set of carved and gilded chairs, covered with silk and velvet coverings.

The Green Velvet Bedchamber features a fifteen-foot-tall bed adorned in green velvet. This was a guest bedroom, and tradition dictated that newlywed family members spend their first night here.

The Embroidered Bed Chamber is described as the most sumptuous room in the house—if that's possible! The 17th-century bed is decorated with embroidered curtains featuring Oriental and chinoiserie patterns.

The Cabinet Room is decorated with blue, hand-painted Chinese wallpaper and carved, gilded Rococo mirrors.

The Walled Garden at Houghton Hall

The five-acre walled garden at Houghton Hall is completely flat and divided into rectangular rooms separated by hedges. The garden was originally a kitchen garden.

In 1991, the owner, Lord Cholmondeley, his gardener Paul Underwood, and garden designers Julian and Isabel Bannerman redesigned the garden as a memorial to Cholmondeley's grandmother, Lady Sybil—the woman responsible for restoring Houghton Hall from ruin in the 1920s. 

The rose garden and perennial borders are among the highlights, with long borders creating strong views through the garden.

The Bannermans designed this rustic temple that features antlers from the white deer that roam the estate.

One of the most interesting features was an artwork called "Waterflame" by Danish artist Jeppe Hein. Yes, that is a mixture of fire and water. I don't know why I didn't think to make a video.

"Waterflame" by Jeppe Hein

An impressive begonia in the Conservatory.

This is a fruit cage, which houses mostly berries, also designed by the Bannermans. It is surrounded by a sea of poppies.

The Mediterranean Garden.

Our tour guide, Emma, is standing in front of a pile of stones. I'm not sure whether this was an art exhibit or the remnants of one!

Houghton Hall was a wonderful way to end our day of garden touring. I'm very glad Bruce encouraged us to visit the gardens after I had originally decided to spend my limited time inside the house. The house was fascinating, but the gardens were definitely worth seeing.

Text and photos by Phillip Oliver, Dirt Therapy